Domaine Vernay, Viognier, "Le Pied de Samson"

Storied wine appellations redraw their boundaries more frequently than one might think. Often, this is done to increase production in order to meet growing demand (case in point, when Champagne dramatically increased its size in the run-up to Y2K). Still, there are other instances when a small slice of prime vineyard real estate is inexplicably removed from an elite appellation. Such is the story of Rhône icon Vernay’s “Le Pied de Samson”. It’s difficult to dispute that Vernay is the Condrieu’s appellation royal family. For longer than I’ve been alive, the family’s Condrieu whites (which retail for upwards of $700 per bottle!) have been prized by sommeliers and collectors. The small, 900-foot elevation site that produces today’s wine was formerly Vernay’s crown jewel – its literal highest elevation vineyard in Condrieu, resting atop all their prized holdings. Still, in the late 1980’s, this small parcel was nonetheless written off the official Condrieu map. I can’t quite explain why that happened, but I assure you that this wine possesses all the power, grandeur, and aromatic fireworks that make Condrieu the Rhône valley’s most iconic 100% white wine appellation. It’s a truly stunning wine - and a dumbfounding value for $52.

Viticulture in Condrieu dates back to the Roman era, but the region nearly vanished in the mid-20th century, with only 14 hectares of Viognier vines remaining in 1982. The Vernay family is credited with driving a renaissance of quality in the village which spawned rapidly increasing prestige and demand in the 1990s through the present. While traditionally producing sweet or off-dry wines, contemporary Condrieu is renowned for producing dry, powerful, mouthfilling and seductively aromatic white wines exclusively from the Viognier grape. There are many skilled, historic families - Guigal, Cuilleron, Gangloff - working Condrieu’s steep, hillside vineyards, but none more singularly associated with Condrieu than Vernay.

Christine Vernay inherited control of the family estate in 1996. She is the beating heart of the Vernay estate, and very much drives the direction of the Condrieu appellation. With 30 years of leadership under her belt, Christine has recently welcomed her daughter, Emma, into the cellar and vines. It’s an exciting time for Vernay and Condrieu. The wines have never been better, and today’s Viognier “Le Pied de Samson” is an unusually fair priced opportunity to experience this appellation’s top talent!

In the glass, the 2024 “Pied de Samson” shows a deep, luminous golden core with subtle green highlights at the rim. The nose is intense and highly aromatic, opening with wild honeysuckle, bergamot blossom, white peach, green melon and apricot. There’s exquisite tightrope balance balance here, but no shortage of Condrieu’s classic richness, viscotiy and stony/white peppercorn  minerality. It finishes dry and extremely long, with a quiet whisper of fine French oak. This is remarkable wine, especially when paired alongside roast chicken and morels, butter poached lobster over sole with brown butter, or a well ripened wheel of Epoisses. Decant for an hour, let it breathe and serve at 52°F in a large Bordeaux glass.