Gour de Chaulé, Gigondas, “Tradition”

In the world of wine, popular taste, as well as enthusiasm for more esoteric “in crowd” categories is always changing. So much so, that this year’s superstar producer or sought-after cult wine often becomes a “has been” in the years ahead. But, in my 2+ decades of working in wine, one rule never changes when it comes to the classics: if you want to experience top tier quality on a weeknight budget, don’t waste time buying second labels or lower tier wines from big-name producers in top appellations. Instead, find a talented producer in a village near those big names. Seek out wines from neighboring villages with similar terroirs, grape varieties and vinification traditions - but in a lesser known, less expensive zip code. Today’s meaty, deeply satisfying Gigondas is a perfect example of how this approach can reward you with a properly aged, world class wine on a modest budget. 

Early May is a unique time of year here in Napa. Daytime temperatures creep ever higher with each passing week, while nights remain quite cool. So, while I’m often inspired to cook dinner outside on the grill in my backyard after work, when it’s time to actually eat dinner, I’m generally back inside, bundled up, and still well entrenched in “red wine season.” And while grilled sausage or smoked ribs often give me the impulse to pull a mature bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape from a great vigneron like Château de Beaucastel from my cellar, the truth is, I don’t always want to drop $100 on a “Tuesday night” bottle (let alone two). And unfortunately, Coudoulet de Beaucastel, Château de Beaucastel’s second label “little sister” never hits the mark for me. It, and many other second label wines often feel like muted, pale shadows of the genuine article. So, when faced with this quandary, I’ll often leave Châteauneuf-du-Pape altogether and head 15 minutes northeast to Gigondas. There, I can spend half the money but reward my own frugality with an equally delicious, similarly styled red from a top tier estate. Gour de Chaulé’s 2022 Gigondas “Tradition” is a perfect example of this strategy in action.

Domaine du Gour de Chaulé traces its roots back to 1900 when it was established as a family winery in the historic village of Gigondas. For generations, the Bonfils family served as the dedicated stewards of this land, passing down traditional viticultural secrets through the decades. The estate gained significant renown under the long-standing leadership of Aline Bonfils, who helped define the winery's identity. Today, the talented Stéphanie Fumoso (aka Aline Bonfils' daughter) serves as the lead winemaker, continuing her family’s legacy with a deep respect for the terroir. Her winemaking philosophy remains rooted in the past, utilizing old vines and minimal intervention to produce authentic Southern Rhône wines. The signature style of the house is characterized by a high proportion of Grenache (along with lesser Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault) and the use of whole-cluster fermentation and neutral French oak foudre to provide structure and spice. This unwavering commitment to heritage ensures that every bottle reflects the rugged, elegant character that has defined the estate for over a century.

The 2022 Gour de Chaulé Gigondas "Tradition" illuminates the glass with brilliant medium ruby color, a translucent rim and medium viscosity. On the nose, it is intensely aromatic, offering crushed dark cherry, wild berries, white pepper, lavender, with gamey meat notes and dried Mediterranean herbs. The palate is medium-to-full-bodied and sturdy, showcasing succulent black tea, red cherry and raspberry fruit framed by dusty, fine-grained tannins and a vibrant core of rustic, rocky minerality. The wine’s concentrated finish is long and sapid, echoing lingering flavors of dried mushroom, Asian spice, woodsmoke and savory garrigue. For an optimal experience, serve this structured red at a slightly cool 60–64°F (15–18°C) to highlight its finesse without allowing the alcohol to dominate. Use a large-bowled Bordeaux stem to allow the wine's rich aromatics to fully breathe and expand. I cannot wait for you to taste how the wine's peppery spice and sturdy tannins slice right through the rich, fatty sweetness of slow-smoked pork ribs.