Runchét, Barbaresco, ‘Meruzzano’

There’s something so timeless about truly classic Barbaresco when it’s made the traditional way. Every time I revisit Nebbiolo after traveling through Piedmont, there’s this unmistakable feeling—like the grape carries its own internal compass, pointing straight back to those quiet Langhe hills. Traditional Barbaresco has that pale crimson color, the lifted perfume, the interplay of tense red fruit, savory earth, and rose petals framed by perfect, natural balance. And in 2019—an excellent vintage across the Langhe—those qualities come through with even greater clarity and finesse. Today’s wine from rising star Runchét captures all of that. Put your nose in the glass and you’re instantly reminded of the tiny villages around Treiso—no fanfare, no theatrics, just honest Nebbiolo speaking clearly from one of the top terroirs on earth. And here’s the best part: I’m close friends with the importer, and she passed along a price that’s frankly ridiculous for the quality in the bottle. I don’t think you can even find this wine anywhere else—production is that small. Soft, perfumed, elegant, charming—showing exactly why Barbaresco has long been called the “Queen of Nebbiolo.” These are exactly the kinds of wines I aim to offer here: honest, traditional, with exceptional price-to-quality. If you’re passionate about Piedmont, this is a producer you shouldn’t skip. It will age beautifully over the next decade, and each time you open a bottle you’ll wish there was more—but there won’t be.

Barbaresco DOCG sits in the southeastern corner of Piedmont’s Langhe hills, centered around the communes of Barbaresco, Treiso, Neive, and the tiny hamlet of San Rocco Seno d’Elvio. This is one of the world’s great terroirs for Nebbiolo, defined by steep exposures, cooling evening breezes, and soils of ancient marine origin—compact calcareous marl (Marne di Sant’Agata) mixed with limestone and clay. These pale, mineral-rich soils force the vines to dig deep and yield Nebbiolo of aromatic lift, purity, and fine, filigreed structure. Barbaresco must be 100% Nebbiolo by law and must age a minimum of two years—nine months of which must be in wood—before release. Compared to Barolo, Barbaresco’s slightly warmer, slightly lower-altitude exposures often result in wines with earlier charm and silkier tannins, without sacrificing longevity. Meruzzano, one of the region’s officially recognized Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGAs)—essentially named, legally defined crus that highlight distinct terroir—is especially prized for clarity of fruit, elegant tannin, and a poised, mineral spine that defines great Treiso Nebbiolo.

Runchét is one of the Langhe’s rising traditionalist estates, a small family project born from Beatrice Bongiovanni and Andrea Danusso’s shared vision of crafting Nebbiolo with honesty and precision. Their winery sits just outside Treiso in an old farmhouse called Cascina Runchét, where Beatrice’s family has lived for generations. After years of vineyard work across Piedmont, Tuscany, and even New Zealand, they returned home to create something rooted squarely in Treiso’s identity: small-production, terroir-driven Nebbiolo made with patience, restraint, and deep respect for tradition. The vines in Meruzzano were planted beginning in 2013 on calcareous marl and are farmed entirely by hand, with low yields and meticulous berry selection. Fermentation is spontaneous with native yeasts, followed by a long submerged-cap maceration—40 to 50 days—to extract fine, elegant tannins rather than brute force. The wine then ages for about 24 months in old barrels, followed by a brief rest in steel before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. The result is Nebbiolo that feels both classic and alive: transparent, aromatic, beautifully structured, and unmistakably Treiso.

The 2019 Barbaresco “Meruzzano” is a pale garnet red with a touch of orange at the rim, the classic signature of traditionally made Nebbiolo. It opens with a lifted, perfumed nose of crushed red cherry, wild strawberry, damp forest, rose petals, dried orange, anise, and a subtle earthy savor that is pure Treiso. On the palate it is vibrant and finely structured, carrying that classic 2019 clarity—tense red fruit, sweet spice, dried herbs, and beautifully integrated tannins that glide rather than grip. It’s elegant without being fragile, and structured without ever feeling heavy; a wine that shows its pedigree immediately yet promises even greater nuance with time. Decant for 45 minutes and serve just above cellar temperature in large Burgundy stems to let the aromatics broaden and the tannins soften. The real beauty of this wine will emerge in 3–5 years for those with patience—try to forget about three or four bottles—but it is absolutely delicious right now with enough air. For pairings, think Piedmontese classics: tajarin with butter and sage, mushroom risotto, roasted duck, braised short ribs, truffle dishes, aged cheeses, or anything earthy and savory that highlights Nebbiolo’s perfume and precision.