Domaine Anita Fleurie, 'Poncié', Cru Beaujolais

Today's exceptional Cru Beaujolais feels like a lost telegram from the mid 20th century. In a world where many Cru Beaujolais wines have become darker, richer, and increasingly Pinot Noir- (or even Grenache-) like, Anita's timeless, terroir-defining Poncié feels wonderfully and stubbornly traditional. It is delicate without being fragile, intensely aromatic without being heavy, and utterly free of the elevated alcohol and exaggerated ripeness that have become an increasingly common scourge throughout the region. For those of us who fell in love with Cru Beaujolais twenty years ago, this bottle is a beautiful reminder of why we became obsessed in the first place.

The vineyard itself is one of the great historic sites of Fleurie. Long before conversations about climate and vineyard classifications became fashionable, wine lovers already knew the name Poncié. Located on the hill of Fleurie's lower eastern slope, this celebrated hillside combines decomposed pink granite with pockets of manganese-rich soils, producing wines renowned for their haunting perfume, silky texture, and remarkable longevity. The site has quietly built a reputation as one of the appellation's benchmarks, and today its roster of admirers includes some of Beaujolais' most respected growers.

What makes 2024 particularly compelling is its sense of balance. The wine possesses all of Fleurie's famous floral charm, yet underneath the flowers lies genuine structure and mineral depth. It reminds me of the great Cru Beaujolais vintages of the 1990s and early 2000s—years when growers worried about achieving sufficient ripeness rather than managing excess sugar. The result is a wine that dances across the palate instead of sitting heavily upon it. Every sip feels energetic, graceful, and impossibly easy to drink.

Wines like this are becoming increasingly rare. Climate change has undoubtedly brought many benefits to regions once challenged by difficult vintages, but it has also made truly delicate, low-alcohol Cru Beaujolais harder to find. Anita's Poncié captures a style that many feared was slowly disappearing: fragrant, nervy, transparent Gamay that prioritizes finesse over power and perfume over extraction. For lovers of traditional Beaujolais, it feels less like a bottle of wine and more like a time machine.

In the glass, the 2024 Domaine Anita Fleurie Poncié is brilliant translucent ruby with vivid magenta highlights. The nose explodes with rose petals, peony, wild strawberry, red cherry, blood orange, crushed granite, and a subtle woodland note that becomes increasingly complex with air. Light- to medium-bodied, the palate is remarkably energetic, combining vibrant acidity with feather-fine tannins and a core of pure red fruit carried by a distinctly mineral backbone. The finish is long, floral, and lifted, leaving impressions of flowers, stones, and fresh berries. Serve at 58°F in a Burgundy stem to showcase the wine's aromatic complexity and textural finesse. Pair with a perfect baked mushroom tart, or a simple charcuterie board featuring country pâté and cornichons.