Bodegas Proelio, Old Vine Garnacha (Grenache)

This is NOT your typical Rioja. Young Rioja often carries the unmistakable stamp of American oak—the rich vanilla, coconut, and baking-spice flavors that can dominate a wine’s personality for decades before fruit and terroir ever get a word in. What we’re talking about here is another animal entirely: this is incredibly delicious red wine from old-vine Garnacha planted high on the slopes of Rioja, about 2,000 feet above sea level, in the historic Alto Najerilla sub-zone. These tiny micro-plots, many approaching a century in age, are fermented with a portion of whole clusters and raised gently in concrete and neutral casks. The result is Rioja stripped of makeup, allowing the pure fruit, altitude-driven freshness, and deep perfume of old vines to speak clearly.

Rioja’s history is long, proud, and inseparable from Tempranillo. For generations, the region built its reputation on structured, age-worthy wines shaped as much by barrel as by vineyard. But long before Tempranillo became king, Garnacha was everywhere, especially in the higher, more remote sites with thin, rocky soils and naturally low fertility, where other varieties struggled. These conditions force vines to dig deep and naturally limit yields, and the old, dry-farmed Garnacha vines that survive there produce some of Rioja’s most soulful wines: lifted aromatics, supple textures, savory spice, and an effortless drinkability that feels both timeless and quietly profound. Today, as winemakers look back toward forgotten parcels and lighter hands in the cellar, old-vine Garnacha has re-emerged as one of Rioja’s most exciting expressions.

Bodegas Proelio was founded in 2012 with exactly this mission in mind—as part of the Palacios family’s Vinos de Finca projects, focused on rescuing historic vineyards that had fallen outside Rioja’s modern economic model. The name Proelio, Latin for “battle” or “struggle,” reflects vines that have endured wind, erosion, altitude, and neglect, yet continue to produce extraordinary fruit. Rather than farming a single estate, Proelio works parcel by parcel across Rioja Alta’s highlands, often vinifying lots separately to preserve their individuality. Oak is kept firmly in the background. The goal isn’t power or polish, it’s transparency, and wines that tell you exactly where they come from.

The 2019 Viñedos Viejos Garnacha opens with wild strawberry, raspberry, dried rose petals, orange peel, and mountain herbs, layered over a cool, stony minerality. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, energetic, and finely textured, with refreshing acidity framing the wine’s beautiful fruit, supple tannins, and a long, savory finish that keeps pulling you back for another sip. Decant for about 30 minutes and serve in large Burgundy stems, slightly cool—just above cellar temperature, around 60°F. This is Garnacha made for the table. Pair it with grilled lamb, pork chops with rosemary, roasted vegetables, paella, or simple Spanish fare—jamón, olives, and crusty bread.