Chateau de Javernand, Chiroubles Indigene

Today's wine is an absolute must for anyone who shares my obsession with red Burgundy and my frustration with the region's ever-skyrocketing prices. Every so often, a superstar comes along that completely recalibrates expectations for an entire region. Cousins Pierre Prost and Arthur Furneau of Château de Javernand have done exactly that for the village of Chiroubles, one of my favorite “cru” villages in Beaujolais. These two farmer-winemakers are producing some of the most expressive, memorable, Pinot Noir-like old-vine Gamay reds I've tasted in my career. After enjoying countless Javernand bottles across multiple vintages, I'm more convinced than ever that this family deserves to be mentioned alongside the finest producers in the region, and as an ideal "value" alternative for lovers of fine red Burgundy. The 2022 Chiroubles Vieilles Vignes is a bottle that dramatically over-delivers, with complexity, structure, and cellar potential of wines costing two or three times as much.

Among Beaujolais' ten cru villages, Chiroubles occupies a singular place. It is the highest appellation in the region, with vineyards climbing from roughly 1,000 to nearly 2,000 feet above sea level, hundreds of feet higher than neighboring Morgon, Fleurie, and Moulin-à-Vent. These elevations, combined with pure decomposed pink granite soils and consistently cooler growing temperatures, extend the growing season and preserve extraordinary freshness, aromatic lift, and tension. Château de Javernand pushes this advantage even further through meticulous certified organic farming and an innovative agroforestry program, planting trees throughout the vineyards to naturally moderate temperatures and delay harvest, allowing the grapes to achieve exceptional phenolic ripeness while retaining modest alcohol and remarkable balance.

Today's 2022 Vieilles Vignes bottling is the defining wine of the estate's Chiroubles lineup, sourced from nearly 70-year-old bush vines rooted deep in fractured granite. The oldest parcels are tended with almost unbelievable care, even fertilized and weed-managed with free-ranging chickens rather than herbicides,reflecting the family's uncompromising commitment to regenerative farming. In the cellar, the wine is fermented with a thoughtful combination of whole clusters and destemmed fruit, preserving both floral perfume and structural depth before aging without oak so that the remarkable purity of old-vine Gamay remains front and center. The result is remarkably Côte de Nuits-like in depth and density: a Cru Beaujolais of unusual sophistication that somehow never sacrifices its soaring aromatics or effortless drinkability.

The 2022 Château de Javernand Chiroubles Vieilles Vignes pours a deep ruby with youthful violet highlights, hinting at the concentration within. The nose is profoundly expressive, revealing black raspberry, Bing cherry, wild blackberry, crushed violets, cracked pepper, rose petals, graphite, warm granite, and subtle notes of black tea and forest floor as the wine opens. On the palate, the old vines announce themselves immediately, delivering remarkable concentration wrapped in vibrant acidity, fine-grained tannins, and an almost Burgundian sense of detail, all while maintaining the energetic lift that defines great Chiroubles. The finish is hauntingly long, echoing with dark berry fruit, mineral spice, and floral perfume that linger long after the final sip. Serve at 60–62°F in a large Burgundy stem and pair with roast duck breast, herb-roasted quail, or,best of all, coq au vin, where the wine's vivid acidity and granitic backbone effortlessly cut through the richness while its layered fruit beautifully complements the dish's earthy depth. Or, if you're feeling decidedly less formal, don't hesitate to pour a glass alongside a homemade In-N-Out Double-Double,the wine's bright acidity, crunchy red fruit, and mineral drive slice effortlessly through the burger's richness, making for one of those unexpectedly perfect food-and-wine pairings. Like all truly great old-vine Cru Beaujolais, this wine is already irresistible today but will continue to gain savory complexity, silkier texture, and even greater nuance over the next 6–8 years.