Cobelli, Schiava, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT

The wines of northern Italy are some of my favorites on earth. Nebbiolo, of course, sits at the very top of that list, but there is another great love of mine that comes from even farther north, close to the Austrian border, made from the Schiava grape. Thin-skinned and pale in color, Schiava pours a light, translucent ruby—closer in spirit to a delicate Pinot Noir than what most people imagine when they think of Italian reds. It finds its true home in Trentino-Alto Adige, just northeast of Lake Garda, and this beautiful example from the Cobelli family grows on the steep, sun-drenched slopes of Monte Corona. Here, vineyards cling to terraced hillsides of chalk and limestone, looking down over the Adige Valley and up toward the jagged walls of the Italian Alps. The terrain is dramatic and rugged, with vines forced deep into rocky soils that concentrate flavor while preserving finesse. The reds that emerge can be haunting—subtle red berries, alpine herbs, crushed stone, and an incredible sense of freshness. The landscape itself is unforgettable: mountains rising on either side of the valley as it stretches toward Austria, where Italian gives way to German and the food takes on a distinctly Tyrolean soul. It’s a bucket-list destination—singular culture, unforgettable cuisine, and wines that feel like pure mountain air in a glass.
Until you make it there yourself, Schiava is the closest thing to teleportation—especially alongside a home-cooked meal from the region. Pick up a few bottles, cook the attached recipe, and you’ll have a brilliant cultural experience at your own table.

Trentino-Alto Adige sits at the crossroads of Italy and the Alps, bordered by Austria to the north, Switzerland to the northwest, and Veneto and Lombardy to the south and west. For centuries, it belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire, only becoming part of Italy after World War I, and that history still shapes the region today. The architecture, language, and cuisine feel closer to Austria than to Tuscany—chalet roofs, German spoken alongside Italian, and a table built around speck, dumplings, and mountain cheeses. The soils are equally distinctive: ancient calcareous limestone, dolomitic rock, chalk, and alluvial deposits laid down over millennia, giving the wines a sense of precision, mineral clarity, and lift. While the region is famous for Gewürztraminer, Lagrein, Teroldego, and Pinot Grigio, Schiava (also known as Vernatsch) is its historic red—naturally low in tannin and color, pale ruby in the glass, aromatic rather than powerful, and prized for its freshness, drinkability, and quiet complexity.

Azienda Agricola Eredi Cobelli is a small, multigenerational estate with roots stretching back more than 150 years. The story begins with Giuseppe Cobelli, who arrived in Sorni di Lavis in the mid-19th century as a famei—a farm laborer who worked in exchange for food and shelter. Over time, through persistence and deep knowledge of the land, he acquired parcels on the dramatic south-facing slopes of Monte Corona. These vineyards rise in natural amphitheaters, perfectly exposed to the sun and cooled by constant alpine air. The heart of the estate is Maso Panizza di Sopra, the historic family home and cellar along ancient Roman wine routes. Today, Giuseppe’s great-grandsons farm roughly five hectares organically, focusing on local varieties and regenerative practices. Influenced by the Ora del Garda wind—a Mediterranean breeze that moderates the subalpine climate—and pronounced day–night temperature swings, the vineyards reach full ripeness while retaining vibrant acidity. Harvesting is done entirely by hand, the traditional pergola trentina training system is preserved, and cellar work is intentionally minimal, allowing site and grape to speak clearly.

The 2023 Cobelli Schiava is all about finesse and alpine clarity. Pale, luminous ruby in the glass, it opens with aromas of wild strawberry, red currant, rose petal, and violet, followed by hints of fresh herbs, almond skin, and wet stone. The palate is silky and light-bodied, driven by bright acidity and subtle mineral tension, finishing gently savory and refreshing. Decant for about 20 minutes and serve in Burgundy stems at roughly cellar temperature (around 55°F)—this is a wine that truly opens with air. It’s endlessly versatile at the table—perfect with speck, canederli (bread dumplings), alpine cheeses, prosciutto, roast chicken, grilled sausages, mushroom risotto, or a classic Margherita pizza. It’s also a stunning choice on a warm summer day; just bring the temperature down a touch before serving. Delicate, aromatic, and quietly profound, this is mountain wine at its most beautiful—a glass of the Italian Alps, and a direct line to one of the most magical corners of Europe.