Domaine Charles Audoin, Bourgogne Aligoté, 'Vieilles Vignes'

For decades, the wines of Charles Audoin have been among my enduring favorites—quintessential expressions of the Northern Côte de Nuits, both red and white. Based just a short jaunt north of Gevrey-Chambertin in the small village of Marsannay-la-Côte, Audoin has long captured the soul of the region in every bottle. When I was first getting into Burgundy, often hanging out after work at the sadly now-closed RN74 in San Francisco, Cyril Audoin—who now leads the domaine—came through town on a small U.S. tour and ended up spending time with us there. I had the chance to share many late nights with him, drinking wine and talking Burgundy. One thing that always stuck with me was his passion for this parcel of old-vine Aligoté his family owns. A cousin of Chardonnay, these vines are over 100 years old, and the Audoin family believed so deeply in the quality they produced that they never considered pulling them out in favor of more fashionable grapes. Every time I taste this wine, it doesn’t present like typical Aligoté—it drinks like old-vine white Burgundy: textured, mineral, and a vivid reminder that old vines often trump variety, allowing terroir to speak most clearly. For lovers of Burgundy, this wine offers a special, lesser-experienced side of the region.

The Côte de Nuits is, of course, synonymous with great Pinot Noir, but historically it has always produced white wines as well—long before market demand pushed Chardonnay further south into the Côte de Beaune. Marsannay, in particular, has a long tradition of white wine production, and today it is increasingly recognized for the quality and character of its whites. Aligoté is a native Burgundian variety, genetically related to Chardonnay, though typically higher in acidity and a touch lighter in profile. In the right sites, and especially from very old vines with naturally low yields, Aligoté can be extraordinary. Old vines bring concentration, texture, and depth—qualities that elevate the grape far beyond its reputation. Case in point: some of the world’s most profound Aligotés come from ancient vines farmed at tiny yields—think Domaine d’Auvenay, and don’t even look up the price.

Domaine Charles Audoin was founded in 1972 and has played a central role in establishing Marsannay as a serious source of fine Burgundy. The Audoin family has farmed vineyards here for generations, but it was Charles Audoin who began bottling under the family name and steadily expanded the estate into one of the most important domaines in the appellation. Marsannay itself was only officially recognized as an appellation in 1987, and estates like Audoin were instrumental in proving the quality and distinctiveness of its terroirs. Today the domaine is run by Cyril Audoin, who farms organically and works with a philosophy rooted in balance, restraint, and transparency—producing wines that emphasize site, vintage, and energy over power or excess. This Aligoté comes from vines planted in 1923 on limestone and clay soils and is treated with the same care and seriousness as the domaine’s top crus.

The 2022 Vieilles Vignes opens with bright citrus, white flowers, green apple skin, and crushed stone, carried by a beautifully textured palate. There’s precision and lift, but also real depth and length—again, more white Burgundy than “Aligoté.” Decant for about 30 minutes and avoid serving too cold; cellar temperature (~55°F) is ideal. Pair with oysters, shellfish, alpine cheeses, roast chicken with lemon and herbs, or simply drink it on its own and let it unfold. For Burgundy lovers, this is one of those bottles that reminds you just how deep—and how rewarding—the region can be when you step slightly off the beaten path.