Domaine Delarche, Pinot Noir, Pernand-Pegelesses, 1er Cru Les Vergelesse

There are few silhouettes in Burgundy as commanding as the Hill of Corton. Stand at its base at dusk and you feel it — this broad, forest-crowned dome that has produced some of the greatest wines in the world for centuries. Around its slopes sit three villages: Ladoix-Serrigny to the east, Aloxe-Corton along the southern Grand Cru face, and Pernand-Vergelesses curling around the cooler western flank. Historically, Pernand lived in a slightly cooler pocket — elegant, sometimes restrained. But as the climate has warmed, that western exposure has become a gift. Today it delivers full phenolic ripeness wrapped in limestone tension and freshness. You get structure and complexity that feels remarkably close to Grand Cru Corton — at a fraction of the price. Les Vergelesses is one of the benchmark Premier Crus at the foot of the hill, and at around $50, the 2023 is exactly the kind of bottle Burgundy insiders quietly accumulate.

To really understand Corton, you have to zoom out. Burgundy’s Côte d’Or is divided into two great halves: the northern Côte de Nuits — home to Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, and Nuits-Saint-Georges — and the southern Côte de Beaune, where Chardonnay reaches its most monumental expression and Pinot Noir takes on slightly broader shoulders. Corton sits at the northern tip of the Côte de Beaune, just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges and just north of Beaune. Drive north from Beaune and the hill rises abruptly in front of you, dominating the skyline in a way few sites in Burgundy do.

Geologically, it is a Jurassic limestone dome formed when this region lay beneath a shallow sea roughly 150 million years ago. Over millennia, tectonic uplift and erosion exposed alternating layers of hard limestone and softer marl, creating the mosaic of soils that define the wines. The eastern and southern faces capture more sun and produce the structured, long-lived reds of Corton Grand Cru. The higher white limestone slopes give us Corton-Charlemagne. And the western flank — Pernand’s side — preserves airflow and freshness while still achieving ripeness in today’s warmer vintages. Increasingly, it is the balance point.

Domaine Marius Delarche is one of the historic families of Pernand. The Delarches have farmed here since the late 19th century, and today the estate is led by Etienne Delarche, representing the fifth generation. Their holdings span roughly 9–10 hectares across Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton, including parcels in Corton Grand Cru and Corton-Charlemagne — serious ground for a domaine of this scale.

What makes Delarche compelling is their restraint. Vineyard work is meticulous, with increasing focus on sustainable farming and soil health. Yields are controlled to preserve concentration without over-extraction. Fruit is hand-harvested and carefully sorted. Fermentations rely on native yeasts. Élevage typically runs 12–18 months in French oak, with new oak kept modest (generally 20–30%), allowing structure and texture without masking terroir. The wines are often bottled unfined and lightly filtered. The style is classical Côte de Beaune — transparent, structured, and built to age.

In the 2023 “Les Vergelesses,” that philosophy is clear. The nose opens with red cherry, wild strawberry, crushed rose petal, and a subtle iron-laced earthiness that speaks directly to Corton’s limestone and marl. The palate is both silky and architectural — fine-grained tannins, vibrant acidity, and a mineral spine that keeps the fruit precise and lifted. There is generosity in the mid-palate, but also discipline. Decant 45–60 minutes if opening young, or cellar comfortably for 8–15 years as savory complexity unfolds.

At the table, this is Burgundy built for real food: roast duck with thyme, pork loin with Dijon and herbs, mushroom risotto, grilled salmon with lentils, or simply roast chicken with chanterelles and pan jus.

Corton is the hinge between the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune — geographically and stylistically. And on its western flank, in Pernand, producers like Delarche are crafting wines that capture that balance beautifully. At $50-ish, this is how you buy Burgundy intelligently.