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If you’ve been following Burgundy for 20 years like I have, I bet your neck is sore from watching its prices climb past Bordeaux, past Champagne, and into an atmosphere all its own. In the last decade, one Burgundy index even shows that the price of some wines nearly doubled in a three year span, twice! That’s great news for collectors who treat wine like art or equities. But what about everyone else? Enter Henri Prudhon’s surreal 2023 Bourgogne Rouge “Les Charmeaux.” This is real Burgundy, from a century-old domaine steeped in tradition, selling for what Burgundy used to cost before the world caught on. And it’s not coming from some vague regional source: it’s 100% family-owned Saint-Aubin fruit! There’s a reason why Burghound’s Allen Meadows once said that Prudhon was “possibly the single most underrated producer in all of Burgundy.” It really is the kind of classy, delicious Pinot Noir that makes you feel like you got away with something … so take it and run!
The Prudhon story is Burgundy in its purest, least commercial form. Henri Prudhon was born in 1921 in Saint-Aubin, and like so many growers of his generation, he wasn’t thinking about brand-building or export markets,he was farming vines and selling fruit. The domaine formally took shape in 1945, when Henri and his wife Marguerite consolidated their holdings, slowly building a patchwork of parcels across Saint-Aubin’s best slopes. For decades, the wines were sold off to négociants, disappearing into blends that never carried the family name. But that changed in the early 1980s, when their son Gérard made the pivotal decision to estate-bottle—an inflection point that transformed Prudhon from anonymous grower to one of the Côte de Beaune’s quiet benchmarks.
Today, the next generation, Vincent and Philippe, carry that legacy with the same unflashy discipline. No luxury branding. No glossy marketing. Just meticulous vineyard work and wines that speak softly but unmistakably of place. In a region increasingly shaped by hype cycles and collector frenzy, Prudhon remains anchored in something far older, and far more reliable.
Prudhon’s Bourgogne Rouge “Les Charmeaux” comes from a 0.7-hectare collection of family parcels, and the farming is done with the kind of restraint that only comes from generations of familiarity with the land. In the cellar, the philosophy is classic Burgundian minimalism: hand-harvested fruit, gentle destemming, and a short maceration to preserve aromatic lift. Aging is equally thoughtful: eight months in neutral barrels for full transparency. In today’s Burgundy, where even modest appellations are often pushed toward richness to justify price, that kind of restraint feels almost radical.
In the glass, this is exactly what Good Red Burgundy is supposed to be: juicy, energetic aromas of red cherry and wild strawberry are quickly joined by more nuanced layers of dried rose petal, sous bois, forest floor, and a touch of iron. Clocking in at an attractive 12% alcohol, the fruit glides on the palate with a buoyant core of acidity carrying it into a refreshingly clean and lightly mineral finish. Enjoy it right around 60 degrees, in Burgundy stems, and pair it with the delicious, quick-method Coq au Vin recipe I’ve attached. Red Burgundy that delivers this much authenticity, nuance, and sheer drinkability without the financial sting is a dying breed. Don’t miss your chance.
- France
- Burgundy
- Limestone and Clay
- Pinot Noir