There are certain projects that begin as whispers—quiet, obsessive, clearly serious—and then suddenly start drawing the attention of the people who matter most. Isola delle Falcole is exactly that kind of project. Led by Emanuele Graetz, this old-vine Tuscan red has already earned serious critical acclaim, and one taste makes it immediately clear why. If you love the dense, structured, no-compromise side of Tuscany—the kind of wine often associated with top Super Tuscans—this delivers the same gravitas and intensity without leaning on international varieties. Here, ancient vines do the heavy lifting, driving depth, authority, and unmistakable personality. Production is tiny, the critics are already watching—and now I am too. Get it while you can.
The hills surrounding Panzano represent Tuscany at its most quietly persuasive. Long, rolling ridgelines unfold in gentle succession—vineyards stitched together with olive groves, stone farmhouses perched just right, and cypress trees standing like punctuation marks against the sky. This is the beating heart of great Sangiovese. Elevation brings cooler nights and longer hang time, while rocky galestro-rich soils naturally rein in excess and emphasize structure, savory depth, and freshness. Wines from these hills don’t shout; they resonate. Power comes wrapped in restraint, and the balance is unmistakable—serious, age-worthy Tuscany in its purest form.
At the center of this wine is the Vecchia Vigna itself—an extraordinary micro-zone between Panzano and Montefioralle where old vines, many between 35 and 75 years of age, are rooted deep into south-facing slopes at elevations reaching over 500 meters. The blend is anchored by Sangiovese, supported by traditional Tuscan varieties including Colorino, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Malvasia, and Trebbiano—an old-school field-blend approach that favors complexity and nuance over polish. Farming is organic, yields are intentionally low, fermentation is natural, and the wine is aged for 18 months in large foudre, allowing the character of the vines and the site to lead. Total production hovers around just 6,000 bottles—this is not a wine built for scale.
In the glass, Isola delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna shows a deep crimson core, fading to subtle orange reflections at the rim. The nose is intense and authoritative, opening with black cherry and black plum, followed by dried herbs, wildflowers, leather, and crushed stone, layered with savory notes of tobacco, iron, and warm spice. On the palate, the wine is full and commanding, framed by firm, fine-grained tannins and a long, grounded finish that feels unmistakably Tuscan. This is a wine built for food. Pair it with bistecca alla Fiorentina, wild boar ragù over pici, or slow-braised beef scented with rosemary and olive oil—dishes born in these same hills, where structure, fat, and savoriness meet their perfect match. Decant if young, cellar with confidence, and enjoy one of Tuscany’s most compelling old-vine stories while it’s still flying just under the radar.
- Italy
- Tuscany
- Limestone
- 70% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Ciliegiolo, 5% Malvasia, and 5% Trebbiano