Jean Marc Burgaud, Morgon, 'Côte du Py'

The village of Morgon is widely considered to produce the finest wines in all of Beaujolais — and within Morgon, the Côte du Py is its crown jewel. This steep, volcanic hill of blue schist and iron-rich soils is often referred to as the “Grand Cru” of the appellation, producing wines with a depth, structure, and mineral drive that stand apart. Burgaud’s 2024 is firing on all cylinders right now — a wine that delivers the kind of complexity and tension Burgundy lovers chase, without the $100+ price tag. If you drink red Burgundy regularly, this will absolutely blow your mind at $35. Names like Lapierre, Foillard, and Métras have long defined the magic of this hill — but Burgaud belongs firmly in that same conversation.

Beaujolais has always lived just south of Burgundy — technically part of it, yet historically overlooked due to the flood of simple Nouveau wines. But the truth lies in the Crus, ten villages that form the spine of serious Beaujolais, stretching north to south from Saint-Amour down to Brouilly. Morgon sits at the heart of it all — a place where wines can “morgonne,” taking on a Burgundian character with time. The village itself rolls gently through vineyards and orchards, but rising above it is the Côte du Py — a dramatic, almost mythical hill of fractured blue stone and ancient soils. Walk it at sunset and it feels elemental, as if the earth here still remembers its volcanic past.

Jean-Marc Burgaud has quietly become one of the benchmark growers of Morgon. He began in 1989 with just a few hectares and has since built his domaine to nearly 18 hectares, including a significant holding on the Côte du Py itself, with vines averaging over 50 years old. Farming is thoughtful and largely organic in practice, with a focus on soil health and balance. In the cellar, Burgaud works traditionally: whole-cluster fermentations, native yeasts, and careful macerations tailored to each parcel, typically around two weeks for Côte du Py to build structure. The wines are raised primarily in concrete or neutral vessels to preserve purity — no tricks, no heavy oak, just a transparent expression of terroir. The result is Gamay that can feel almost Pinot-like in its finesse, yet with a savory, mineral backbone unique to this site.

In the glass, this is where Gamay stops being easy and starts being serious. Dark cherry, crushed raspberry, and kirsch lead into deeper notes of sous-bois, iron, violet, and spice. There’s a wild, savory edge here — a signature of Côte du Py — wrapped around a core of vibrant fruit. The palate is structured yet energetic, with fine tannins, bright acidity, and a long, mineral-driven finish that lingers with hints of blood orange and earth. Serve it in Burgundy stems, give it 30 minutes in a decanter, and watch it unfold. Pair it with roast chicken, duck, pork, or mushroom-driven dishes — anything that plays into its earthy, savory core.

At $35, this is one of the great values in the wine world — Côte du Py, from a top grower, delivering a true taste of terroir.