Tenuta Di Valgiano, Colline Lucchesi Rosso, "Palistorti di Valgiano"

Central and Southern appellations like Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino tend to dominate the conversation surrounding Tuscany’s elite red wines. Still, in the last few years, I’ve personally become even more infatuated with a treasure trove of micro-production reds from small, organic, hand-farmed vineyards in northern Tuscany. Today I’m sharing one of my favorite examples, a limited rarity from the verdant hillsides above the ancient walled city of Lucca. Imagine the power and depth of Montevertine infused with a vivid minerality and Mediterranean spice that is entirely unique to Northern Tuscany. 

Moreno Petrini and Laura di Collobiano are the owner/grower/winemakers at Tenuta di Valgiano,  a portal into one of my favorite lesser known, but truly inspiring corners of Tuscany. In the steep, deep green vineyards looming above Lucca’s ancient stone walls, there is a parallel universe wherein Sangiovese dominated reds possess unique mineral soil character and aromatic florality - in addition to Tuscany’s textbook textbook power and dark fruit. This region - and especially this wine - offer an all to rare “best of both worlds” opportunity for luxury wine connoisseurs and esoteric terroir nerds to find common ground.

This wine is an exercise in purity and handcraftsmanship. Fruit from 40+ year old mongrel vines (60% Sangiovese + old vine Canaiolo, Syrah, Merlot, etc)  is hand-farmed, hand-harvested, hand destemmed; then fermented on indigenous yeasts in small, open-top wooden casks. As the juice gradually turns to wine, Moreno and Petrini perform delicate punchdowns by foot. Finally, the “Palistorti di Valgiano” is aged in mature, neutral French oak barrels for 12 months before being blended and aged for an additional 6 months in the family’s ancient cement vats. There is no fining or filtration of any kind.

The 2023 “Palistorti di Valgiano” opens with a dark torrent of violets, wet rose petals, cherry skin, anise seed, blood orange peel, turned earth, and cold stone. The palate is simultaneously powerful and lifted. There’s muscle here but also  ultra-fine detail. Lifelike black currant, black cherry skin, red plum, iron, and a savory, mineral influence. The tannins are optimally ripe while still offering a judicious dose of youthful angst. Serve at 60–65°F after a 15-minute decant, ideally in a Bordeaux stem to maximize aromatic expression. Pair with traditional Lucca rovellina breaded and heavily sauced steak - or better still, a deep bowl full of plump, meat stuffed tordelli lucchese pasta!. This wine has just entered the beginning of a decade-long drinking window. If you seek the darkest fruit and most assertive tannins this wine will ever offer, please enjoy today - but as with all Valgiano’s reds, you can rest assured that the more patience you exercise in opening this 2023 “Palistorti di Valgiano”, the more you will be rewarded with detail, elegance, and floral/mineral aromatic intrigue.