Pateromichelakis, Romeiko, Chania

There are wines that impress with pedigree — classified growths, famous crus, centuries of reputation behind them. And then there are wines that feel like you’ve uncovered something ancient and authentic that somehow slipped through the cracks of the modern wine world. The 2024 Pateromichelakis Romeiko is exactly that kind of bottle. The grape itself is part of the intrigue. Romeiko is one of the oldest surviving varieties in Greece, a grape that has quietly thrived on the island of Crete for centuries, producing wines locals have long enjoyed while the rest of the world barely knew it existed. Historically it was used mostly for rustic village wines, often overcropped and misunderstood. But when yields are reduced and the vineyards are farmed carefully, Romeiko reveals something fascinating — fragrant red fruit, wild herbs, Mediterranean spice, and a savory character that feels completely tied to the landscape where it grows. This bottle comes from the western edge of Crete in the Chania region, where old vineyards still climb rocky hillsides above the sea and traditional grapes continue to grow in a landscape shaped by wind, sun, and salt air. What makes this wine special is that the Pateromichelakis family is part of a new generation treating this ancient grape with serious intent: organic farming, dramatically reduced yields, and careful cellar work that allows the character of Crete itself to shine through the glass.

To understand wines like this, you really have to understand Crete, because the island sits at the very beginning of European wine history. Long before the famous vineyards of France or Italy existed, Crete was home to the Minoan civilization, one of the earliest advanced societies in Europe, flourishing more than 4,000 years ago. Archaeologists have discovered ancient wine presses, storage amphorae, and vineyard tools across the island, evidence that winemaking was already a central part of life during the Bronze Age. From the great palace complexes of Knossos and Phaistos, wine was traded across the Mediterranean, carried by merchant ships to Egypt, the Levant, and beyond. When the Greeks and later the Romans rose to power, Cretan wine remained prized throughout the ancient world. Historical texts describe wines from Crete being shipped to imperial Rome, and amphorae stamped with Cretan markings have been found across Mediterranean trading ports. During the Venetian rule of the island from the 13th to 17th centuries, Crete again became one of Europe’s most important wine suppliers — especially for a sweet wine known as Malvasia, which became one of the most famous wines in the medieval world and was exported across Europe. Even through Ottoman rule and modern upheavals, small farmers across Crete continued growing indigenous grapes, preserving a genetic treasure trove of varieties that survived precisely because they were never industrialized.

Today Crete is once again emerging as one of the most exciting wine regions in the Mediterranean. The island is mountainous, with vineyards planted from sea level up to well over 800 meters in elevation, creating remarkable diversity of climate and style. Indigenous grapes like Vidiano, Liatiko, Kotsifali, Mandilari, and Romeiko have become the focus of a new generation of growers who see their heritage as a strength rather than something to replace. The westernmost corner of the island — Chania — is one of the most traditional wine areas in Crete. Here vineyards are scattered across hills overlooking the sea, cooled by the meltemi winds that sweep across the Aegean during summer. Elevation and ocean influence help moderate Crete’s intense sunlight, allowing grapes to ripen fully while still retaining freshness and structure.

The Pateromichelakis family comes from the village of Lousakies in Kissamos, near the western tip of Crete, where their roots stretch back centuries. Like many Cretan families, they historically farmed olives and vines together — the classic Mediterranean agricultural system. In 2005, brothers Yiannis and Manos Pateromichelakis began revitalizing the family vineyards with a focus on organic farming and native grape varieties, particularly Romeiko. Their vineyards sit roughly 200–300 meters above sea level, planted in rugged limestone-rich soils that help retain moisture during Crete’s dry summers. Romeiko had long been considered a rustic grape, often used for bulk wine because farmers pushed yields far too high. The brothers changed that completely. They dramatically reduced yields, carefully selecting fruit and harvesting in multiple passes to ensure balanced ripeness. The wine ferments with around 10 days of extraction, followed by partial aging in older oak barrels that soften the structure without masking the character of the grape.

In the glass, the 2024 Romeiko is vibrant ruby red with luminous clarity. The nose bursts with wild strawberry, sour cherry, red plum, and crushed rose petals, layered with hints of dried thyme, Mediterranean herbs, cracked pepper, and sun-warmed earth. On the palate it is energetic and silky, showing bright red fruit wrapped around lively acidity and gentle tannins. Flavors of pomegranate, black cherry, dried oregano, and spice glide across the palate with a subtle mineral edge that speaks to the rocky soils of western Crete. The finish is savory and refreshing — the kind of red that invites another sip almost immediately.

At the table this wine is pure Mediterranean. In Crete it would be served alongside dakos salad with tomatoes and olive oil, grilled lamb with oregano, slow-braised goat, or apaki — the island’s famous smoked pork. It’s equally delicious with roasted vegetables, grilled eggplant, tomato-based pastas, charcuterie, or simple roast chicken with herbs. Slightly chilled, it becomes one of the most versatile and refreshing reds you’ll drink all year.

This is the kind of bottle that reminds you just how vast the world of wine really is — a rediscovered grape from one of the most ancient wine cultures on earth, grown in the hills above the Aegean and bottled by a family determined to keep their island’s history alive.