Sergio Marani, Verdicchio di Matelica

Early in my wine life, I fell deeply in love with French, German, Austrian, and Spanish  whites - but admittedly, and up until quite recently,  I sometimes struggled to emotionally connect with Italian white wines. Many of the country’s well known whites either felt too technical and coldly “clinical”, or the opposite: I would spend $200 on a bottle from a top name in Umbria or Abbruzzo (I won’t name names), and end up with a glass of bottle variant, oxidized, bacterial “natural wine”, and over the years, the reliably high hit rate in Burgundy, the Mosel, Kamptal and Rias Baixas steered me further away from Italy. But, I’m proud to admit that my prejudices and drinking patterns have been shattered recently - and in 2026, I believe Italy is arguably the most exciting destination for white wine in the world. The best examples of grapes like Timorasso, Fiano, Garganega, Carricante - and today’s grape, Verdicchio - are white wines that everyone should know and love.  And better still, they are often bottles serious wine lovers of all budgets  can afford.

But enough with the context - let’s talk about today’s wine. Do you love the golden-yellow orchard fruit aromas of warm-vintage Chablis and barrel fermented village white Burgundy? Do you crave the appetite-whetting citrus pith of “old school” Albarino and lees-aged Gruner Veltliner? Well, imagine those addictive qualities combined with seductive aromas like saffron, preserved lemon, and dried Mediterranean herbs and you’ll begin to get a sense of just how special today’s 2024 Verdicchio from Sergio Marani is.

Sergio Marani is a third-generation grower-winemaker, joined by two sons with university educations in wine, specializing in Verdicchio di Matelica from high-elevation vineyards. Sergio’s land and wines stand out for their high mountain terroir, where extreme temperature shifts result in invigorating freshness and acidity with a dense mineral core. In the cellar, the Marani family uses spontaneous fermentation, battonage, and 1 year+ aging in massive, ancient, 50-year-old Apennine oak casks to build texture without masking the fruit. There is zero fining or filtration, which is quite unusual for Verdicchio. Maranis wines are celebrated for their structure, deft balance of power and refreshment (which is not easy to pull off in any white wine region, let alone Italy’s Marche), and ability to develop complex notes of honey and saffron with extended cellar aging.

The 2024 Sergio Marani Verdicchio di Matelica opens with a complex blast of preserved lemons, saffron blossom, all supported by a distinctive undercurrent of white flowers and citrus pith. On the palate, the wine displays remarkable tension contrasted against a round, medium-bodied texture that carries flavors of citrus pith,  green apple, and beeswax. It’s difficult to balance weight and power with bright acidity - but mastering that balance is Marani’s calling card, and it’s here in spades. My favorite part about this wine is the finish: it’s saline, it’s lipsmacking, it’s bold and mouthfilling - it feels like a little bit of everything, and it just keeps going, and going and…!  For the best drinking experience, serve this wine at 54°F in a large Burgundy glass alongside a traditional pasta mare e monti. But don’t forget: the Marani family’s stellar Verdicchio will only improve and become more richly textured and boldly aromatic with time. I encourage you to grab a few extra bottles to enjoy over the next 3-4 years.