Lano, 'Rocche Massalupo', Barbaresco

There is a persistent misconception that every Barbaresco occupying the lower end of the region's price hierarchy should be viewed as an "entry-level" wine—a pleasant, if less consequential, introduction to Nebbiolo before graduating to the celebrated icons. Well, that assumption falls apart the moment you taste today's 2020 Lano Barbaresco "Rocche Massalupo." This bottle is in no way a simplified or abbreviated expression of Barbaresco, but rather a profoundly complete wine in its own right: layered, architecturally precise, and crafted with the same patience and seriousness reserved for far more expensive bottlings. My notes say, simply: "Drinks like $100 retail Barbaresco—SERIOUS." Every element—from its soaring perfume to its finely etched tannins and extraordinarily persistent finish—speaks of painstaking organic viticulture, skilled but egoless winemaking, and the confidence to allow great fruit to reveal itself without cosmetic intervention. It is, quite simply, one of those bottles that reminds one that Nebbiolo is capable of producing wines every bit as intellectually engaging and emotionally moving as Burgundy's most celebrated reds.

The Lano family farms among Barbaresco's highest elevations, on a hillside whose cooler exposures produce Nebbiolo of exceptional fragrance and structural finesse. While this area (between the villages of Treiso and San Rocco seno d’Elvio) is less glitzy than some neighboring villages, its finest vineyards have long been prized by growers for producing wines of remarkable aromatic lift, vibrant acidity, and graceful longevity. Rocche Massalupo reflects this tradition beautifully. The fruit is meticulously farmed, harvested entirely by hand, and handled with remarkable restraint in the cellar, where extended maceration, patient élevage, and long bottle aging allow the wine's complexity to emerge naturally rather than being hurried to market. Nothing here feels manipulated or exaggerated. Every decision serves clarity, balance, and a faithful expression of place.

That patient approach is especially evident in the outstanding 2020 vintage. Rather than chasing sheer power, the wine emphasizes proportion and detail. Dark cherry, wild strawberry, dried rose petals, blood orange, licorice root, crushed herbs, and warm spices unfold gradually over time, while the palate moves with an effortless combination of concentration and transparency. The tannins possess that unmistakably classical Nebbiolo quality: firm enough to promise decades of development, yet so finely woven that they never dominate the fruit. This is a wine that rewards slow drinking. Every fifteen minutes in the glass seems to reveal another layer, another aroma, another subtle shift in texture.

One of the great pleasures of mature Barbaresco is its ability to feel simultaneously powerful and weightless, and Rocche Massalupo captures that paradox beautifully. Decant it for an hour if serving today, pour it into a large Burgundy bowl at roughly 64°F, and allow the wine the time it deserves. The color remains brilliantly transparent garnet. Aromatically, expect rose petals, ripe red cherry, dried cranberry, orange peel, sweet tobacco, forest floor, and hints of anise and black tea. On the palate, the fruit is vibrant yet restrained, framed by polished tannins and energetic acidity before finishing with extraordinary persistence, lingering mineral notes, and the quiet authority that distinguishes genuinely great Nebbiolo.

There are few classic food pairings capable of matching Barbaresco's combination of elegance and structure more perfectly than a thick, grilled, medium-rare tomahawk steak. The caramelized crust created over hardwood coals mirrors Nebbiolo's savory depth, while the richly marbled interior softens the wine's refined tannins without muting its remarkable freshness. A finishing sprinkle of flaky sea salt, cracked black pepper, and perhaps a touch of rosemary is all the accompaniment required. The wine's lifted floral aromatics and vibrant acidity cut effortlessly through the richness of the beef, while its earthy undertones seem to echo the char itself. Together, they create one of those rare combinations in which neither food nor wine dominates; instead, each elevates the other into something considerably greater than either could achieve alone.